Mig-21M Eduard 1/48 (Part 6)

Mig-21M

Jugoslovansko vojno letalstvo, št. 805 - Yugoslav Air Force

Eduard 1:48

 

6. SESTAVLJANJE TRUPA - Body assembly

Pod sestavljanjem trupa razumemo najprej kot vgradnjo posameznih sklopov v eno polovico trupa in nato spajanje obeh polovic trupa (A1, A18)

 

Vsi deli ali sklopi potrebujejo pri vgradnji malo prilagajanja (brušenja) in dodelav.

All parts need adjustments (grinding) and modifications before assembly.

6.1. Priprava obeh polovic trupa A1, A18 - Body preparations A1, A18

Ker bo pokrov kabine v odprtem položaju, bo tudi varnostna kljuka za njegovo odpiranje izven ležišča in obrnjena navzdol. Zato ležišče tik pod vetrobranskim steklom izdolbemo.

Because cockpit will be opened, that means that security handle and it's opening will be outside of the locking and turned downside. The locking right beneath the windshield must be carved in. 

Rob kabine na obeh polovicah trupa je preozek, še posebej če nameravamo namestiti tesnilni rob (PE2, PE3, PE7, PE8).

The edge of the cockpit on the both sides of the body is too thin, especially if we're planing to install the sealing edge (PE2, PE3, PE7, PE8).

 

Rob kabine zato razširimo s tanko plastiko.

We must to widen the edge of cabin with a thin plastic.

 

Stene obeh polovic trupa na zadnjem koncu v izpuhu so predebele. Zadnji rob izpuha stanjšamo kolikor je mogoče.

The walls on both sides of the body (back of the exhaust V) are to thick. It's recommended to thin the edges as much as possible.

 

Ker bomo na trup vgradili tudi jedkane dele ki zahtevajo poglobitev v plastiko, to storimo že sedaj.

Because we're going to install PE parts into the body, is recommended to deep'em down into the plastic right now.

 

Ker je Eduardova maketa kasnejša verzija Mig-a MF, mi pa delamo verzijo M, moramo drugi detajl takoj pod kabino pomakniti na prvo servisno oplato.  

The Eduards model is a late verison of the Mig MF, we're making the version M, so we need to move the second detail beneath the body on the first service plate.

6.2 Priprava nosnega konusa (D80) - Preparation of the nose conus (D80)

Konico nosnega konusa izostrimo. Stik dielektričnega dela konusa (zelene barve) in kovinskega okrova poglobimo z gravirno iglo.

We must sharpen the edge of the nose conus. A contact of dielectric part of the conus (green color) and a metal housing must be deepend with and engraving needle.

 

Konus pobarvamo z Revellovo barvo SM363, kovinski okrov pa z Burnt Metal Metalizer (model Master). Vsi jugoslovanski Mig-i verzije M in MF so imeli rumeno konico konusa.

We paint the conus with a revell color SM363, the metal housing with a Burnt Metal Metalizer (Model master). All yugoslavian MIG version M and MF had a yellow end of the conus.  

6.3. Priprava grbe - hrbtnega rezervoarja (H1) - Preparation of the back tank (H1)

Del H1 pripravimo že sedaj, ker ga bomo potrebovali med vgradnjo zadnje stene kabine.

Part H1 must be prepared now, because we're going to need it before the installation of the back wall of the cockpit.

Spodnji rob na delu H1 posnamemo (samo na zunanji strani) začenši od sprednje oplate kjer je elektronika pa do konca rezervoarja.

Lower edge on the part H1 must be cut off (only on the outside) from the first plate where are the electronics, till the end of the tank.

 

Del H1 ima na vsaki strani dve manjši servisni oplati za kateri bomo uporabili jedkane dele. Zato moramo ležišči za ti oplati poglobiti.

Part H1 has a service plate on the both sides, for wich we're going to install the PA parts. We need to deepend the final position of this plates.

 

Zelo primerno orodje za dolbenje ali tanjšanje plastike je kirurški skalpel št.15.

The perfect tool for thickening and thining plastic is a surgeon scalpel No15. 

6.4. Priprava repnih površin (H2, H6) - Preparation of the tail surfaces (H2, H6)

Ker je Eduardova maketa kasnejša verzija Mig-a MF moramo za verzijo M na levi strani repa (H6) vgravirati manjšo servisno oplato, ki tudi ni točno na istem mestu.

Because the Eduards model is a late version of MF, we must for M version install a smal service plate, on the left side of the tail (H6) and on a little different position.

 

Na desni strani repa (H2) pa moramo na na njegovem osrednjem delu eno panelno linijo zakitati, ker je na tem mestu ena sama oplata in ne dve.

On the right side of the wing (H2) we are forced to fill the panel line with the putty, because on this place must be only one plate instead of two.  

6.5. Vgradnja - Instalation

Najprej vgradimo obe centralni rebri (C3, C48), nato motor in zatem še nosni konus.

First we must install both central ribs (C3,C48), then the engine and after that a nose conus.

 

Pri vgrajevanju kabinskega dela, zadnje stene kabine in sprednjega kolesnega prostora pa lahko nastopijo težave.

Pri nameščanju kabinskega dela v trup nam mora biti kot merilo zgornji rob stranice kabinskega dela, ki mora priti točno pod razširjeni rob kabine na trupu. Nadalje sta obe stranici kabinskega dela pomaknjeni navzven (nista pravokotno na dno kabine) in ko namestimo instrumentno ploščo nam na vsaki strani zeva 1mm široka špranja (zelena puščica).

At installation of canopy, back walls of the cockpit and front wheels room, we can have some problems. At installation of the cockpit into the body, we must be carefull that a top edge of one side of the cockipit fits right beneath the thickened edge of the cockpit. Further, both side of the cockpit part must be moved aside (not vertically on the bottom of the cockpit) and when we install an instrument board, we have a 1mm wide gap on each side (see green arrow).

Ker je potrebno kar nekaj moči, da stranici potisnemo proti instrumentni plošči, pred kabino nalepimo plastični plošči ki bosta olajšali leplenje obeh polovic trupa.

Because it's very hard to put together the sides to instrumnt board, we're forced to glue some small styrene parts, wich they'll strentghen the gluing proccess of the body.

Če zadnjo steno (R9) spodaj odrežemo kot je označeno, se lahko zgodi da jo odrežemo 1mm preveč (rdeča puščica). Merilo kako visoko moramo zalepiti zadnjo steno, sta oba polkrožna izrastka na drugi strani stene, ki se morata ujemati z zgornjo krivino trupa.

If we cut the back wall (R9) like is marked, it may happen that we cut it 1mm to much (red arrow). To help ourselves, how high we must glue the wall, we can orientate with a half-circled plastic on the other side of the wall, wich they must fith with an upper bound.

 Kabinski del in zadnjo steno lepimo hkrati. Uporabimo dvokomponentno lepilo ker potrebujemo čas za pravilno nameščanje. Ko smo se prepričali da je vse na pravem mestu, stike kabinskega dela in zadnje stene s trupom še dodatno utrdimo z dvokomponentnim lepilom.

The cockpit part and the back wall can be glued at the same time. For that we use 2-component glue, because it takes time for the right adjustment. When we're sure that everything is in place, we glue the joints of the cockpit and the back wall once again, so that everything holds together perfectly.

 

Ko namestimo katapultni sedež v kabino, ugotovimo da je sedež za okoli 2mm prenizko. Zgornji del katapultnega sedeža (naslonjalo za glavo) bi moral segati skoraj do vrha zadnje stene kabine.

When we install the cataput seat into the cockpit we can see that the seat is 2mm too low. Upper part of the catapult seat (headrest) shoul reach the top of the cockpit.

 

Zato pod sedež nalepimo plastiko ustrezne debeline, da bo višina sedeža prava.

The best solution for that is to glue the plastic beneath, to get the perfect height of the seat.

 

Sledi vgradnja kolesnega prostora. Po navodilih naj bi plošča kolesnega prostora sedla na dva izrastka na kabinskem delu.

Next step is installing the wheels room. Instructions says that the board of the wheels room should be glued on the two plastic bits on the cockpit part.

 

Vendar nam mora biti vodilo ležišče na obeh polovicah trupa, pa bo kolesni prostor na pravem mestu.

But the bits should be on the both halves of the body in order to glue them on the right place.

 

Sedaj lahko zlepimo obe polovici trupa.

Now we can glue together both sides of the body.

7. Spajanje trupa in sklopa B3 - drugič - Joining together the body on B3 Section.

V tej fazi zlepimo celoten sklop B3 s trupom. Potrebno je paziti da je sprednji stik teh dveh sklopov čim lepši. Pravo letalo na tem mestu nima nobene panelne linije, trup je povsem gladek, zato moramo doseči, da bo či manj kitanja.

In this phase we'll glue an entire part B3 with the body. When gluing together the front joint, we must be carefull how we glue together this both sections. The real plane doesn't have any panel line on this place, the body must be real soft and polished so that we don't need to apply a lot of the putty.

 

Nasprotno si na zadnji strani lahko privoščimo slabši stik na račun sprednjega stika, če že ne gre drugače.

On the other side we can afford this on the back side if necessary.

 

Sedaj lahko prilepimo grbo H1 in sprednji servisni oplati (A3 in A17). Preden prilepimo oplato A17 jo je potrebno pomeriti na trup skupaj z vetrobranskim steklom. Vsak del zase se namreč odlično prilega na trup, če pa sta oba hkrati pane. Potrebno je malo brušenja na oplati.

Now we can glue the hib H1 and front service plates (A3 and A17). Before we glue A17, it's necessary to messure it with the body along with the windshield. Each part fits perfectly on the body if both sides are together. The plates don't require a lot of grinding.

 

Na sprednjem koncu stika med oplato A17 in trupom je prevelika reža, zato na notranji strani dodamo malo kita (glej puščico).

On the front end of the plate A17 and the body, there's a really big gap which we need to fill with putty (Watch the arrow).

Kompletna delavnica (Detailed Workshop here):

http://www.makete.si/viewtopic.php?t=6043

 

 

Mig-21M Eduard 1/48 (Part 5)

Mig-21M

Jugoslovansko vojno letalstvo, št. 805 - Yugoslav Air Force

Eduard 1:48

 

 

5. SKLOP B3 - SECTION B3

 

Sklop B3 sestoji iz osrednjega dela trupa spodaj, zračnih zavor, kolesnega prostora in instalacij v krilu.

 

In Section B3 we have a main body(below), air brakes, wheels room and installation in the wings.

 

5.1 Sprednje zračne zavore - Front air brakes

 

Ker sestavljamo Mig-a 21 verzije M jugoslovanskega vojnega letalstva (št. 805) je potrebno pri sprednjih zračnih zavorah narediti spremembe po katerih se ta verzija razlikuje od Eduardove MF. Zračne zavore pri verzijah R, S in M so bile simetrično prirezane.

 

Because we're building a yugoslavian MIG-21 M version of this aircraft(No 805), we need to make some modifications on the front air brakes wich is different than the Eduards MF version. Air brakes on versions R,S, and M were symetricaly cutted.

 

 

Ker bodo zavore odprte, je potrebno v delu B3 izrezati ustrezni odprtini v kateri namestimo preoblikovana dela A4 in A12.

 

Because the brakes are going to be opened we need to cut a small shaft on the B3 part and replace them with a A4 and A12.

 

 

Prav tako preoblikujemo obe zračni zavori (A8, A16). Za oba hidravlična cilindra pripravimo še kovinska vsadka iz injekcijskih igel.

 

We need to modify both air brakes A8 and A16. We must make both hydraulic cylinders out of the hypodermic needles.

 

 

Notranjo stran zavor dopolnimo z manjkajočimi detajli.

 

We fill front side of the brakes with missing parts.

 

 

Dela A4 in A12 sta bila pri verziji M pobarvana, razen servisne plošče, ki je ostala aluminijasta.

 

Parts A4 and A12 were painted on Version M, with service board in bare alluminium.

 

 

5.2 Kontrolna vratca za nabojne pasove - Amunition belt links collector hatch

 

Na levi strani trupa, takoj za zračno zavoro so kontrolna vratca za nabojne pasove. Eduardova maketa je kasnejša verzija MF-a, pri kateri so ta vratca večja kot pri verziji M ali zgodnejši verziji MF. Zato ta vratca graviramo na novo.

 

On the left side of the main body behind the air brakes are amunition belt links collector hatch. Eduards model is a late verison MF with bigger hatch as M or early version MF. We need to engrave this hatch.

 

 

5.2 Kovičenje - Riveting

 

Eduardova maketa nima nobenih kovic. Odtisnjene ima vijake na servisnih oplatah in ojačitvene vijake na površini kril ter repnih površinah. Servisne vijake povečamo s svedrom 0,3mm, ojačitvene vijake pa z iglo. Načrti za kovičenje vseh tipov Mig-a 21 so v knjigah Detail Scale Aircraft Drawings založbe R.V.Resin.

 

Eduards model doesn't have any rivet lines. The only thing that is printed are bolts on the service board and reinforcement bolts on the wings and tail surfaces. We need to drill service bolts with drill 0,3mm and reinforcement bolts with a needle. Plans for riveting all types of Mig-21 can be found in the books Detail Scale Aircraft Drawings by R.V.Resin.

 

 

5.4 Instalacije v krilu - Installations inside the wings

 

Od instalacij v krilu so najbolj vidne, če je naš pogled usmerjen proti zadnjemu delu letala, kisikove krogle in krogle stisnjenega zraka, modre ter črne barve. Eduard v svojih navodilih napačno navaja črno barvo za krogle z oznako D25, ki morajo biti modre barve tako kot krogle D26 in D28.

 

We can only see this installations if we're looking towards the back of the aircraft. Oxygen bottles and compressed air-bottles are painted with black and blue color. The black color D25 for bottles is wrong in Eduard's manual because we have to paint it with a blue color like bottles D26 and D28.

 

 

Če pogledamo proti sprednjemu delu letala, so prav tako vidni nekateri detajli od katerih pa Eduard v svojih dodatkih ponuja samo dve pregradi. V priloženem načrtu Eduard navaja napačen položaj teh delov (št. 6, 7, 8), pravilen položaj je označen z zeleno puščico.

 

If we are looking towards the front of the aircraft we can se some details of wich Eduard offers only 2 barriers. In Eduard's manual the position of parts No 6,7 and 8 are wrong, the right position is marked with a green arrow.

 

 

Samo del št.6 namestimo na zgornji del krila. Med delom št.6 in pregradami C17, C18 naj bo malo prostora, ker med njimi potekajo različni vodi.

 

Only part No 6 is placed on the top side of the wing. Between part No 6 and barriers C17, C18 we need some gap because between them are running various lines.

 

 

Ostale pregrade naredimo iz pločevine jedkanih delov, razen pregrade z ovalno odprtino, ki jo naredimo iz tanke plastike.

 

We must make other barriers out of the PE metal except the barrier with an oval opening wich can be made out of the thin plastic.

 

 

Vse ostale detajle naredimo v samogradnji, za kar uporabimo jedkano pločevino, injekcijske igle, bakreno žico ter Albionove cevi.

 

All other details are scratchbuilt out of the PE metal sheet, hypodermic needles, copper wire and Albion tubes.

 

 

Pristajalne luči izboljšamo tako da oba prozorna dela G2 prekrijemo z Alu-Spiegelfolie proizvajalca Ryher, ki ima na eni strani efekt ogledala.

 

Landing lights can be modified, both transparent parts G2 can be covered with an ''Alu-Speigelfolie" by Rayher. This foil contains a mirror on one side.

 

 

Sledi leplenje kolesnega prostora v sklop B3 in prav tako zgornje ter spodnje polovice krila. Na desni strani kolesnega prostora povežemo še oba voda modre barve s konektorji v krilu.

 

Next thing we need to do is to glue the wheels room in to the part B3, lower and top part of the wings aswell. On the right side of the wheels room we must connect both lines(blue color) with connectors in the wings.

 

5.5 Spajanje trupa in sklopa B3 - Putting together the body and B3 part

 

V tej fazi še ne gre za dokončno spajanje trupa in sklopa B3 ampak za njuno pomerjanje, da kasneje ne bi imeli težav.

Najprej že sedaj prilepimo obe zgornji polovici kril. Pri nameščanju kolesnega prostora v sklop B3 je potrebno paziti, da stranici C2 in C47 sedeta v ležišče do konca, sicer nam obe polovici trupa na zgornji strani silita narazen. Med krilom in obema stranicama zdrsi trup precej na tesno. Zato na notranji strani trupa kjer se trupa dotikata C2 in C47 naredimo žleb oziroma stene trupa malenkost stanjšamo.

 

In this phase we don't glue the body with a B3 part permanently but more of a fitting so that we don't have any problems later.

First we need to glue both sides of the wings. When installing the wheels room into a B3 part we must be carefull that the side C2 and C47 fits in it's place perfectly. Between wings and both sides a body fits really tight. Because of that we must make a channel on the top side of the body and parts C2 and C47, or we can thin a side wall.

 

 

Vsako polovico trupa potisnemo do konca v ležišče kar lahko preverimo če pogledamo v kolesni prostor od spodaj.

 

Each half of the body must be pushed till the end into the slide, at that time we check the position by looking  into the wheels room from the lower part of the body.

 

 

Dobimo perfekten stik trupa s krilom.

 

Here we can see a perfect fitting with the body.

 

 

Kompletna delavnica (Detailed Workshop here):

http://www.makete.si/viewtopic.php?t=6043